The 10 Stages of a long Madrileño lunch
If there is one thing I have learned in Spain it is to love the long, lush lunches. Back in the USA I rarely had the opportunity to interrupt my day to take a two or three hours and enjoy lunch with great company. However here in Spain it seems to happen quite often and is more of an experience and pleasure than just filling my stomach and getting back to work. September marks the beginning of a new season, especially, it is a time when most new restaurants open their doors and this year in Madrid is no exception. Out of 55 major openings in Spain 28 have opened since June. The most anticipated opening would have to be that of DSTAGE. Since chef Diego Guerrero left Club Allard behind lats year he has had plenty of Days to Smell, Taste, Amaze, Growth, and Enjoy. His latest concept and restaurant, DSTAGE, is rapidly claiming its position as one of Madrid’s best new restaurants.
Having tried Celler Can Roca and Arzak before I was particularly excited to try DSTAGE because it was in Madrid, in my favorite neighborhood and I knew this was Guerrero’s new baby, all his own. The week upon my return from a long visit to the U.S. I had the pleasure to try Diego’s delights first hand with a couple of good friends. Located near Alonso Martinez just off of Calle Fernando Vl DSTAGE is considerably more laid back than Guerrero’s previous kitchen, Club Allard. Exposed brick, wood floors, and plenty of natural light fits perfectly for the neighborhood and general vibe of the staff. We were welcomed with a glass of Cava (my choice) and quickly shown to the table. Lots of space here! The restaurant was full but did not feel crowded, plenty of activity while maintaining an atmosphere of calm, just right for a good long awaited lunch.
By no means am I a food critic, I just like what I like and have had plenty of experience eating around the world, so I will not get into the why or meanings of this and that, not even technical stuff. I will simply show you what I had and say that it was a great long lunch. We ordered the 10 plate lunch and two bottles of wine.(yes it was a good two hour lunch) After desert I felt right, not stuffed but certainly satisfied and not wanting to eat any more more. 10 stages is plenty for lunch.
The Service
The staff was very friendly, young and seemed very excited to be working there. The passion for food definitely permeates the air. It was also great to see familiar faces from Club Allard like Tinuca Maestro, the director of DSTAGE. Chef Diego came out after we finished to check on us which is always a welcomed gesture.
There is only one thing that I could say that did not make the “best list” is the desert. Beautiful and fantastical as it looked, the taste just did not make par with any of the previous stages of our lunch. However, what I love about DSTAGE is that the food overall was less show, it was less about spectacular-spectacular and more about “ohhh thats gooood.” A few subtile surprises in flavors but no fireworks or crawling deserts here. It is the kind of place I would want to visit on a regular basis. There was some adventure for me too, I did eat a few things that I normally would not have tried nor liked in the past like sardines. When the plate arrived I thought oh no, but I tried and liked…very much! To me that is the sign of an excellent dish, if it can entice me despite knowing I generally do not care for what is on the plate. Thanks Diego, I guess I like now like sardines now too.
My Recommendation
DSTAGE is on now on my “best list”. A great value and a total pleasure, if you find yourself coming to Madrid you need to put it on your “must do list.” And if you really want something special, book the private room (with kitchen) downstairs.